Day 3 - Monterey Peninsula
Have breakfast at your inn or hotel this morning and then drive south to
San Gregorio, a tiny town with several 19th-century buildings. If you
enjoy general stores, stop by the San Gregorio Store, which has been in
business since 1889.
About 25 miles south of Half Moon Bay, you’ll reach Pigeon Point. The
115-foot tall lighthouse here, which dates from 1872, is one of the most
photographed in the world. You can tour the grounds on your own during
the week or take a 30-minute guided tour of the grounds 10AM to 4PM, Friday through Sunday.
A few miles down the road is Ano Nuevo State Reserve, the home of the
world’s largest mainland breeding colony of northern elephant seals,
some weighing as much as 5,000 pounds. If you come during breeding
season -- from mid-December through March -- you’ll need to reserve a
two-and-a-half hour walking tour through the reserve led by a
naturalist. The rest of the year you can do the three-mile loop trail
on your own. Seals are here year ‘round.
During mating season, the huge males battle each other in spectacular
displays of virility. You can hear them snorting for miles. Tour space
is limited, so make your reservations as far in advance as possible.
Otherwise, be at the ticket booth when it opens at 8:30AM and hope for a
cancellation.
After your outdoor adventure, reward yourself with crab cakes or goat
cheese tarts at the New Davenport Cash Store Restaurant. The Cash
Store started as a pottery outlet for the owners and their students.
Over the years, lots of exotic imports were added, and today, the Cash
Store and its restaurant are both local landmarks. Save room for the
bread pudding.
The other good stop for lunch is Santa Cruz, the favorite town of
California surfers. If you’re in the mood for Mexican, try Tacos Morena
on Beach Street or El Palomar in the Palomar Inn. If you’d like
something with a view, head for the Crow’s Nest in the Santa Cruz Yacht
Harbor.
In 1989, Santa Cruz was devasted by the 6.9 magnitude Loma Prieta
earthquake, whose epicenter was ten miles away . Nearly one third of
the downtown businesses did not survive. But today, you’ll hardly
notice.
After lunch, roller coaster fans can ride the Giant Dipper, one of the
oldest remaining wooden coasters in America. The Dipper is part of the
100-year-old Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk, the last oceanfront amusement
park in California.
Santa Cruz is known for its beaches and you can absorb plenty of Santa
Cruz culture with a stroll along the beach, where sun worshippers,
hardbodies playing volleyball, and surfers all happily comingle.
If you’d like to get some exercise, you can rent a bike and take a ride
along scenic West Cliff Drive to Lighthouse Point. The Santa Cruz
Surfing Museum is housed in the Mark Abbott Memorial Lighthouse. It has
lots of old photos, surfboards, and other items documenting the history
of surfing. The views of Monterey Bay are great too.
Shoppers can head for Pacific Avenue. Though many of the Victorian
structures here were destroyed by the earthquake, today the boulevard is
jumping with sidewalk cafes, galleries, design shops, and antique
stores. Bibliophiles will love Bookshop Santa Cruz.
The drive to Monterey from Santa Cruz takes about an hour, and it’s
another half-hour to Carmel. Depending on your interests, you can base
yourself in Monterey, Pacific Grove, Pebble Beach, or
Carmel-by-the-Sea. There’s lots to do in Monterey. Pacific Grove is
good for bicyclists, walkers, and those who wish to avoid crowds.
Pebble Beach is a golfer’s paradise. And Carmel appeals to those who
want to be strolling distance to quaint galleries, shops, and
restaurants.
You can explore the peninsula no matter where you stay. And since the
local drives are spectacularly scenic, getting from here to there is all
part of the fun.
Get settled into your inn, resort, or bed and breakfast and take a
stroll to get oriented. For dinner, try Café Fina, Fresh Cream, or
Montrio in Monterey; Passionfish, Fandango or Joe Rombi’s in Pacific
Grove; or Anton & Michel, Casanova, or Flying Fish in Carmel.
There’s not a lot going on in the area after dark, so enjoy a leisurely
dinner and turn in early. If you’re up for a few decibels, head for
Clint Eastwood’s Hog’s Breath Inn in Carmel.
Day 4 - Monterey Peninsula
Have breakfast at your inn and then head for Monterey. If you’re a
history buff, start your day at the Monterey State Historic Park which
features several well-preserved adobe structures including Casa
Soberanes, the Cooper-Molera Adobe, and three historic houses.
A two-mile, self-guided walking tour called the "Path of History" will
show you the historic heart of town. You can pick up a map at the
Custom House and Garden next to Fisherman’s Wharf. Built in 1827 by the
Mexican government, the Custom House is the oldest public building in
California.
On the same plaza, the Maritime Museum of Monterey has model ships,
prints, documents, whaling tools, and the gigantic lens from the old
Point Sur Lighthouse -- it’s nearly two stories tall.
These days, Fisherman’s Wharf is filled with tacky souvenir shops and
so-so restaurants, with the exception of Café Fina. If you can overlook
the commercialism, there are some great views, and you’ll often hear sea
lions barking on the rocks.
You’ll find better shopping and more ambience with a stroll along
Alvarado Street, particularly on Tuesday afternoons when the Old
Monterey Farmer’s Market and Marketplace attracts more than 100
vendors.
Lovers of fine photography should visit the Monterey Peninsula Museum of
Art which has important photographs by Ansel Adams and Edward Weston.
The museum also has an international collection of folk art.
Monterey’s world-class attraction is the Monterey Bay Aquarium -- a
must-see even for those with no particular interest in marine life.
This is one of the most popular attractions in the area, so avoid
visiting on the weekend if you can. And purchase your tickets in
advance so you won’t have to wait in line. You can buy them online or
by phone.
What’s the big attraction? Exhibits like Saving Seahorses, the
one-million gallon Outer Bay where you’ll see open-ocean creatures like
sharks, sea turtles, and tuna, and the three-story kelp forest. Among
the 350,000 marine plants and animals you’ll see here are penguins,
otters -- in their own 55,000-gallon playroom -- rays (which you can pat),
jellyfish, and octopus. Don’t miss it.
If you’d like some exercise, you can rent bikes or in-line skates and
hit the Monterey Bay Recreation Trail which runs along the coast for 18
miles to Lover’s Point in Pacific Grove. Or rent kayaks and explore the
coast.
For dinner tonight, try Tarpy’s Roadhouse outside Monterey, Fishwife in
Pacific Grove, or the Rio Grill in Carmel.
Day 5 - Monterey Peninsula
After breakfast, spend the day exploring the area however you please.
For a unique view of the Monterey Peninsula, consider a three-hour kayak
tour of Monterey Bay. Monterey Bay Kayaks offers naturalist-led trips
that pass kelp beds, sea otters, sea lions, harbor seals, and a variety
of birds. Trips leave at 9:30AM and 1:30PM.
Birders will enjoy a kayak trip through the Elkhorn Slough. Half- and
full-day tours through the tidal flats and salt marshes are available.
The complex ecosystem here is home to more than 200 species of birds.
In 1880, the Hotel Del Monte opened on a beautiful piece of property in
the Del Monte Forest. They built a 17-mile horse path along the coast,
and today the drive is one of the most beautiful in the world.
You can enter the 17-Mile Drive at any of five guarded entrances between
Pacific Grove and Carmel. With a cost of $8.50 per vehicle, this is the
only private toll road west of the Mississippi. The views in both
directions are breathtaking. En route, you’ll pass Point Joe, Bird
Rock, China Rock, Fanshell Overlook, Cypress Point Overlook, Crocker
Grove where the oldest Monterey Cypress grow, and the Lone Cypress which
has stood alone on the cliffs for 300 years. You’ll also pass
magnificent multi-million dollar estates.
To make the most of the drive, plan on spending about three hours.
When you’re ready for lunch, try the Clubhouse Bar & Grill or Roy’s at
the Inn at Spanish Bay or the Stillwater Bar & Grill overlooking the
18th green at Pebble Beach.
Golfers can choose from a number of beautiful courses in addition to
legendary Pebble Beach. If your heart’s set on playing it -- and the
$450 greens fees aren’t a deterrent -- your best bet is to stay at The
Lodge at Pebble Beach or the Inn at Spanish Bay. Guests have first dibs
at Pebble Beach, Spyglass Hill, The Links at Spanish Bay, and Del Monte
Golf Course in Monterey. You can reserve your tee times when you
reserve your room.
If you’d like to play a round but don’t want to spend a lot, Pacific
Grove Municipal Golf Course is a great buy. The back nine was laid out
by Pebble Beach designer Jack Neville in 1960 and it features views of
the ocean and the Point Pinos Lighthouse.
Old Del Monte is another bargain, particularly if you take advantage of
their twilight rates. Bayonet and Black Horse are in the $70 range.
Literary buffs can drive to Salinas, 20 miles northeast of Monterey to
visit the National Steinbeck Center, an $11 million museum dedicated to
the life and work of the author who made Monterey’s Cannery Row famous.
Those interested in architecture will enjoy a stroll past the Victorian
cottages and mansions of Pacific Grove. The San Carlos Borromeo de
Carmelo Mission -- the Carmel Mission -- founded in 1770, is also worth a
visit. The second Franciscan mission built in California, it is the
most beautiful.
With 14 acres of landscaped grounds, the mission is of interest to
garden lovers too.
The village of Carmel has drawn artists and authors for decades, and
today it attracts hordes of tourists as well. You’ll enjoy it most
mid-week or, better yet, off season. The architecture is a little
Tudor, a little Mediterranean, and a little fairy tale. And a walk past
the storybook cottages designed by Hugh Comstock, gnarled cypress trees,
and flowering courtyards is a true pleasure.
Shoppers will find many temptations in the galleries and boutiques along
Ocean Avenue and lining Carmel Plaza. And there are lots of restaurants
to revive you when you tire. It’s hard to believe the city limits
enclose just one square mile.
Two of the most interesting buildings in Carmel are Tor House, the home
of poet Robinson Jeffers, and Hawk Tower, which contains stones from all
over the world, including the Great Wall of China. Tours of both are
available on Fridays and Saturdays with reservations.
If you just want to enjoy the spectacular scenery, there are several
good parks in the area. At the end of Ocean Avenue, Carmel Beach City
Park has a beautiful white sand beach. Carmel River State Park has
fewer tourists and more birds. But if you’re really serious about enjoy
the outdoors, head for Point Lobos State Reserve where there are dozens
of trails leading through Cypress groves and overlooking sea otter,
harbor seal, and sea lion colonies.
From December through April, it’s a great place to spot gray whales
migrating from Alaska to Baja, Mexico.
Wine lovers can visit the tasting rooms at Estancia Estates and Hahn
Estates in Soledad, Galante Vineyards and Heller Estates in Carmel Valley, or
Robert Mondavi Coastal or Ventana Vineyards in Monterey.
Dine tonight at The Old Bath House Restaurant in Pacific Grove. In a
19th-century building that was originally a bath house for Methodists on
retreat, the restaurant overlooks the ocean from Lover’s Point Park.