Day 4 - Cotswolds
This morning, have breakfast, check out of your hotel and then drive ten
miles east of Bath to Castle Combe. This tiny village, once voted England's
prettiest, is certainly one of the most photogenic.
There's not much here ? a brook, a bridge, and a street, imaginatively called "The Street."
But you'll enjoy stepping back in time for a while. The principal attraction is the
15th-century Upper Manor House which served as the residence of Dr. Doolittle in the movie of the same name.
Once you've explored Castle Combe, head for the Cotswolds, many travelers favorite
part of England. The honey-hued stone cottages, rolling hills, and stately manor homes
make this area especially appealing.
Where you choose to base yourself will depend on your interests, whether you prefer to
stay in the town or the country, and how much you want to spend on your accommodations.
Those who want the convenience of staying in the town ? the ability to walk to restaurants,
shops, and places of interest ? will find comfortable, reasonable lodging in Burford,
Broadway, Stow-on-the-Wold, or Painswick.
If you're more interested in peace and quiet ? and willing to pay for it ? consider
staying in one of the area's grand manor house hotels.
Each village has its own particular charm. And the region is so compact that you can
see all the sights no matter where you hang your hat. So don't worry too much about choosing a base.
It makes sense to make your way around the villages in a circle. You can start anywhere
along the loop and the total driving time should be less than an hour ? though traffic
in towns such as Broadway and Chipping Campden can slow things down considerably.
Bibury, called England's most beautiful village by William Morris, remains largely
unspoiled by modern development. For great photographs, visit Arlington Row, a
string of 17th-century gabled cottages. St. Mary's Parish Church is another worthwhile
stop here. It's one of the few churches in the area that the prosperous wool merchants
did not rebuild, so parts of the church date from the 8th to the 13th centuries.
Outside town, the old corn mill has been converted into the Cotswold Heritage Museum.
Here you'll learn more about the history and culture of the area.
Ten miles up the road, Burford serves as the southern gateway to the Cotswolds. Consequently,
it's a little more developed than some of the other towns. But it still retains its medieval charm.
The River Windrush flows through the town and Queen Elizabeth I once admired the view from the bridge.
Be sure to stroll along its banks while you're here.
The Norman church dates from 1116 and there are some antique shops on the busy high street.
There's also a market on Fridays.
Antique lovers should plan on spending lots of time in Stow-on-the-Wold. There are more than
60 dealers in the town. With eight crossroads converging here, it's easy to reach. And there
are lots of pubs and outdoor cafes when you need sustenance.
Serious antique shoppers should visit Anthony Preston, Baggott Church Street and Huntington's.
The market town of Moreton-in-Marsh still has a bustling market on Tuesday mornings.
On the ancient Roman Fosse Way, the High Street here is one of the widest in the Cotswolds.
It's Curfew Tower dates back to 1633.
Birders will enjoy a visit to the Cotswold Falconry Centre. And animal lovers can see rare
farm animals at Sleepy Hollow Farm Park.
Most visitors agree that Chipping Campden is the quintessential Cotswold village. The
approach, through the Vale of Evesham is ridiculously perfect. As is the village High Street.
If you fall in love with the Cotswolds, it's likely to be Chipping Campden you remember.
The 15th-century Perpendicular-style Church of St. James is the finest in the Cotswolds.
The 14th-century Woodstaplers Hall and Jacobean Market Hall are also worth checking out.
Arts and Crafts movement founder William Morris made the Costwolds his home for most of his
life. And today, many superb craftsmen have studios and shops in Chipping Campden. Of
particular interest are Harts Silversmith and the Campden Needlecraft Centre.
Garden lovers should visit Hidcote Manor Garden, four miles northeast of town. Created in
1907 by American horticulturalist Major Lawrence Johnstone, it offers dozens of garden "rooms"
on ten acres. On summer evenings, Shakespeare is performed on the Theatre Lawn. If you have
the opportunity to go, don't miss it.
Broadway is one of the most popular of the Cotswold villages as the tour busses will attest.
But you shouldn't miss it. Its High Street is certainly one of the most beautiful in the country.
Cromwell slept at the Lygon Arms, the High Street coaching inn that has been welcoming
guests since 1532. And St. Eadurgha's Church is more than 1,000 years old.
There are lots of nice shops, tea rooms, and restaurants in Broadway. So come early or
late to avoid the crowds.
At the edge of town, the Broadway Tower Country Park rewards climbers with a sweeping
panorama of 12 counties.
Sudeley Castle is the burial place of Catherine Parr, Henry VIII's sixth and final wife.
The house contains magnificent furnishings and paintings by Constable, Turner, Van Dyck,
and Rubens. And the formal gardens contain roses from the 16th-century.
A little farther off the tourist trail, Upper and Lower Slaughter offer a quieter, more
peaceful Cotswold experience. There's not much to see, but you're sure to find a stroll
along the River Eye to the 19th-century corn mill rewarding.
Relatively speaking, there's lots to see and do in Bourton-on-the-Water ? and lots of people
doing and seeing it. Unless you're specifically interested in one of the attractions here ?
a museum with vintage cars, a perfumery, and a museum depicting rural life ? visit very
early, very late, or not at all.
About a mile from Bourton-on-the-Water is a worthwhile destination for birdwatchers.
Birdland has more than 350 species of birds, including many that are rare or endangered.
It also has one of the largest penguin colonies in the world.
Painswick is one of the most charming villages around. And garden lovers shouldn't
miss the opportunity to visit the gardens of Painswick House. The private home, built
in 1830, was the residence of the Dickinson family for eight generations. And the present
owners have opened their gardens for your enjoyment.
Just south of Painswick, Owlpen Manor is enchanting. This tiny hamlet of 35 consists
of a church, a few cottages and a manor house, the interior and gardens of which you can
tour. Effusively praised by everyone from Vita Sackville West to Prince Charles, Owlpen
Manor is the ideal English village.
After a full day of sightseeing, return to your hotel for a little R and R before dinner.
If you're staying in one of the country house hotels, have dinner there. Most have
outstanding ? some even Michelin-starred ? restaurants.
If you're staying in town, you'll be pleasantly surprised at how the crowds have thinned out.
Of the hoards who visit the Cotswolds every day, a relatively small number spend the night.
In Painswick, have dinner at the Country Elephant. In Moreton-in-the-Marsh, try the Marsh
Goose. And in Broadway, try the Tapestry.
There's not much to do in the Costwolds after dark. Enjoy a crowd-free stroll. Or pop into
the village pub for a pint.
Day 5 - Cotswolds
Have an early breakfast at your hotel this morning, then hit the road for
Stratford. The drive will take 45 minutes or less, depending on where you're staying.
Prepare for crowds. An estimated 660,000 visit Shakespeare's birthplace each year. But
if you hit the ground running, you'll beat many of the day-trippers coming over from London.
If you're interested in seeing a performance ? and by all means, you should ? make
arrangements before you get to town. Although there are usually some tickets available
each day at the box office, it's easy enough to make arrangements in advance, and then you won't be disappointed.
The Royal Shakespeare Theatre is actually three theaters: the Royal Shakespeare Theatre; the Swan Theatre; and The Other Place. The Royal Shakespeare Theatre and the Swan Theatre are currently undergoing renovations and are scheduled to re-open in 2010. The Other Place has been temporarily transformed into the Courtyard Theatre to continue to accommodate performances.
Performance information is available on the web and you can purchase
tickets in advance. There are usually several matinees a week in addition to nightly performances.
Once your theater plans are firmed up, you can coordinate your sightseeing around them.
Start at the Shakespeare Centre on Henley Street next to Shakespeare's birthplace. Here,
you can purchase a combination ticket that gives you admission to all the Shakespeare
properties in Stratford for a reduced rate.
Shakespeare's Birthplace is a half-timbered early 16th-century house. It's filled with
memorabilia and furnishings from the period. The displays are illuminating and the gardens
alone are worth the price of admission.
Go ahead and feel the awe at being in the presence of genius.
Walk down the High Street past Harvard House, next to Garrick Inn. This Elizabethan townhouse
was the home of Catherine Rogers, the mother of the founder of Harvard University.
A block down across Chapel Street, Nash's House was built on the grounds of New Place,
where Shakespeare died on his birthday in 1616. The present house ? which was owned by
Shakespeare's granddaughter's husband ? is furnished with 17th-century pieces. The mulberry
in the garden is said to have grown from a cutting of Shakespeare's tree.
Further down Chapel Street on the second floor of the Guild Hall is the Grammar School
that Shakespeare likely attended. Turn left at the end of Chapel Street and you'll
come to Halls's Croft, one of the finest Tudor homes and gardens in town. Shakespeare's
daughter Susanna and her husband, Dr. John Hall, probably lived here.
Continue along Old Town and make a left on Trinity until you reach Holy Trinity Church.
Shakespeare's tomb is in the chancel of this beautiful parish church and many of his
family members are buried here too. The original parish records recording his birth and death are on display.
Walk along the gardens lining the Avon River to the Royal Shakespeare Theatre.
The Summer House of the theater has a brass rubbing center where you can make impressions
of many different medieval and Tudor reliefs.
If it's lunchtime, or you just fancy a pint, drop into the Black Swan. Known as the
"dirty duck" to the actors who've frequented it since the 18th century, its veranda
overlooks the Avon. The food's not always the best, but it is long on history and atmosphere.
For something more civilized, try the Box Tree Restaurant inside the Royal Shakespeare
Theatre. You can watch the swans on the Avon while you enjoy the continental cuisine.
You're not through until you've done Anne Hathaway's Cottage. In many ways, this
thatched-roof farmhouse with its large garden is the highlight of a visit to Stratford.
Shakespeare's wife Anne lived here before their marriage in 1582 and many of the original furnishings remain.
There's a boathouse on Swan's Nest Lane where you can rent punts or rowboats ? a great
way to enjoy a quieter view of Stratford. When you've been and done it all, head back to
the Cotswolds for some relative peace and quiet.
If you're staying at a country house, walk the grounds. If not, take a hike anyway.
It will restore your sense of well-being.
There are pleasant strolls from almost every town. The one-mile walk between Upper and
Lower Slaughter is mostly level, well-marked and especially enjoyable. Following the
River Eye, the path ? known as the Warden's Way ? will take you past ancient mills, rolling meadows, and lots of waterfowl.
Those not staying in a country house, should at least dine in one. Buckland Manor
near Broadway, Lords of the Manor House in Upper Slaughter, and Charingworth Manor
outside Chipping Campden all have great restaurants. Dress up, forget your budget,
and live like a Lord for a night.
Day 6 - Cotswold
Today is yours to do whatever you enjoy. There's lots to see and do in
the area, though many find doing basically nothing in such glorious surroundings most appealing of all.
If you'd like to do more walking, head to nearby Cirencester. The "capital" of the
Cotswolds, it has great walks radiating from the Market Place in almost every direction.
There's also a Perpendicular style church, a small archaeological museum, and an arts and crafts center.
Serious walkers can walk part of the the famed Cotswold Way, one of Britain's most
popular National Trails. There are several easy access spots between Chipping Campden
and Bath. Any tourist office can point you in the right direction.
Those interested in a round of golf will find several courses in the area: Cotswold Hills
outside Cheltenham, Tewkesbury Park in Tewkesbury, Painswick, and Broadway. All accept
visitors who phone ahead for reservations although tee times may be restricted on weekends.
One of the most impressive palaces in England, Blenheim is a few miles away in Woodstock.
Best known as the birthplace of Winston Churchill, it was designed by Sir John Vanbrugh
and given to John Churchill, the 1st Duke of Marlborough, by Queen Anne in gratitude for
defeating Louis XIV.
Today, Blenheim rivals Versailles and outshines any other estate in Britain. Inside,
look for magnificent Belgian tapestries, portraits by John Singer Sargent and Sir Joshua
Reynolds, and fabulous ornamentation.
Outside, the grounds are unbelievable. Set on 2,700 acres of parkland, the gardens were
created by Henry Wise, Capability Brown, and Achille Duchene, a follower of La Notre.
The Malborough Maze near the palace is the largest hedge maze in the world. There's
also a formal herb garden, a butterfly house, and a pleasant restaurant.
The small town of Woodstock has two fine pubs: the Star Inn, which specializes in leg of
lamb, and the King's Head. Both are reasonable, friendly, and have great selections of local ale.
Oxford is less than 20 miles from Burford and it's certainly worth a visit. Today,
the romantic university town does double duty as a modern, bustling city.
The best way to get oriented and explore the college is by taking a walking tour.
Two-hour tours leave the Tourist Information Centre daily at 11AM and 2PM. If you prefer
not to walk, you can get information about coach tours there also.
The university is comprised of 40 separate colleges located throughout the town. So
if you want to explore independently, you'll need to pick and choose. Just remember
that Oxford is a working University and you will not be permitted to impede anyone's education.
For a great view of the town ? and great photographs of Oxford's slender spires, climb
Carfax Tower. It's right in the center of town.
Christ Church, the best known of Oxford's colleges, was founded by Henry VIII in 1546.
Dominated by Tom Tower which houses Great Tom, the huge bell, the quadrangle in front
of the college is Oxford's largest and the Chapel here serves as the University Cathedral.
Begun in the 12th century, the Chapel with its Norman vaulting and ornate choir is a
highlight, as is the medieval dining hall.
Magdalen (pronounced Maudlin) College was founded in 1458 and two of its best known
graduates are Cardinal Wolsey and Oscar Wilde. A stroll through the Deer Park or along
Addison's Walk will present the Oxford you hoped to see.
When it's time for lunch, Oxford has some of the most atmospheric pubs around. Try the
Bear Inn or the Turf Tavern, former hang-out of Rhodes Scholar Bill Clinton and preferred
pub of Colin Dexters' Chief Inspector Morse.
For something a little less casual, visit Brown's. A ten-minute stroll from the center
of town, this popular restaurant occupies five Victorian shops that were gutted to create
this space.
For the quintessential Oxford experience, rent a punt at the foot of Magdalen Bridge
and float for a while.
University Church ? the Church of St. Mary the Virgin ? offers a panoply of architectural
styles beginning in the 11th century. If you didn't climb Carfax Tower, climb the tower here.
Behind the church, Radcliffe Camera was designed by James Gibb, the architect of St.
Martin-in-the-Fields. The elegant domed structure houses the reading room of the Bodleian
Library. With over 5 million volumes, the library is one of the largest in the world and
certainly one of the most revered. You may visit part of the library on a tour if you'd like.
Art lovers shouldn't miss the Ashmolean Museum, the oldest public museum in Britain.
It has a wonderful collection of paintings and drawings by Michelangelo and Raphael,
16th- and 17th-century jewelry and miniatures, and Greek, Roman, and Egyptian antiquities.
You'll even see Guy Fawkes's lantern and the Jewel of Alfred the Great.
The Botanic Gardens, along the Cherwell River adjacent to the Magdalen Bridge, are the
oldest in Britain. And the Museum of the History of Science contains more than 10,000
objects including some amazing early astronomical and mathematical instruments. The
collection of astrolabs is particularly interesting.
Although there's the expected preponderance of tee shirts and tacky souvenirs, Oxford
does offer good shopping. The Golden Cross between Cornmarket Street and Covered Market
has dozens of first class shops and boutiques. The arcade itself dates from the 12th
century and much from the 15th and 17th centuries survives.
The covered market nearby is great for food and flowers. In Gloucester Green, there's
a vegetable market on Wednesday mornings. Thursdays, the market sells antiques and
second-hand items.
There's great theater in Oxford, so if you're up for a night out, check at the Tourist
Information Centre for performance schedules. The drive back to the Cotswolds should
take less than 40 minutes.